The Region of Belize - Ambergris Caye

The Regions - Ambergris Caye

Home Hotels Tours Car Rental Local Air Map Vacation
Planning



The Regions - Ambergris Caye

San Pedro and Ambergris Caye

San Pedro is the only town on Ambergris and has long been the most-visited destination in Belize-in fact, for years it was the only developed part of the country's tourism industry. It has a population of about 9,000 Belizeans and an ever-fluctuating mob of gringos that numbers from the hundreds to about 1,000 at any one time. Foreigners own about 60 of Ambergris's 70 accommodations-good for island economy, or the "new colonialism"? You decide.

THE LAND

Ambergris Caye is Belize's largest island, jutting south from the Mexican Yucatán mainland, stretching 24 miles into Belizean waters and interrupted by an ages-old canal. In fact, if it weren't for this "cut," dug by the Maya, Ambergris could easily have ended up part of Mexico. As for its name, ambergris is a waxy substance originating in the intestines of the sperm whale. Don't laugh-the rare and valuable substance used to be used in the manufacture of perfume and went for top dollar.

The island sits only 35 miles east of Belize City and only three-quarters of a mile west of the Belize Barrier Reef, visible from most beachfront hotels. Ambergris's beach runs parallel to the reef except at Rocky Point, where they briefly come together. Ambergris Caye was formed by an accumulation of coral fragments and silt from the Río Hondo as it emptied from what is now northern Belize. The caye is made up of mangrove swamps, 12 lagoons, a plateau, and a series of low sand ridges. The largest lagoon, fed by 15 creeks, is 2.5-mile-long Laguna de San Pedro on the western side of the village.

San Pedro Town sits on a sand ridge at the southern end of the island. Over the years, the constant wind, rain, tides, and occasional battering of a hurricane have reduced the shoreline and beachfront of the village by 30 feet. This is normal for barrier islands, which naturally shift position-but it's a bummer for we humans who like to build things in the sand.

HISTORY

The Maya
As with the rest of Belize, the first people on the caye were the Maya. They managed to fight off the invading Spaniards as early as 1508. Very little is known about these Maya. However, a small Post-Classic site in the Basil Jones area and a few jade and carved ornaments have been found along with obsidian flakes and fragments of pottery. Remnants indicate that Ambergris Caye was an important hub for trading. It is possible to visit these sites; transportation and guides are widely available.
At the southern end of the caye, the ruins of Marco Gonzalez are also considered of strategic importance. It is presumed that because of the location of Ambergris Caye (in the center of the sea-lane) it was a stopover for Maya traders traveling up and down the coast. And because of its close proximity to Mexico, no doubt it had great military value as well.

Four and a half miles north of Rocky Point, at Boca Bacalar Chico, a narrow channel separates Belize and Mexico. The Maya dug the strait by hand so that they could bring their canoes through rather than go all the way around the peninsula (now Ambergris Caye). In dry years when the water receded, it was impossible to get a boat through, so in 1899 the Mexican government expanded the channel to, like the Native Americans before them, allow its ships easy access to the other side of the peninsula.

The Blakes
Between 1848 and 1849, during the Caste War on the Yucatán Peninsula, Yucatecan mestizos migrated to Belize, and four families were the first permanent residents of what has developed into present-day San Pedro on Ambergris Caye. Before long, there was a population of 50 self-sufficient fishermen, who were also growing corn and vegetables. Life was idyllic for these people-until 1874 and the coming of the Blake family.

James Blake paid the Belize government BZE$650 for Ambergris Caye (taking over every parcel of land except one set aside for the Catholic church) and began collecting rent from people who had been there for many years. After this, the history of the island was tied up with the fortunes of the Blakes and their in-laws, the Parhams and Alamillas. Their story reads like a script from a novel, including love affairs, illegitimate children, unlikely marriages, and (some say) power trips. The Blakes controlled everybody and everything on the island, including the coconut and fishing industries, though in the end (after almost 100 years) the good guys won out-or so it seems today. After many years, the rule of the Blake family came to a close when the Belizean government stepped in and made a "forced purchase" of San Pedro. It redistributed the land, selling lots and parcels to the same islanders who had been living on the land for generations.

The Fishing Industry
The caye saw industry change according to the political climate: from logwood to chicle to coconuts, and then to lobsters. Before 1920, the spiny lobster was thrown away and considered a nuisance, constantly getting caught in fishing nets. That all changed in 1921 when the lobster became a valuable export item. Though the fishermen were getting only a penny a pound, the business became lucrative when freezer vessels and freezer-equipped seaplanes began flying between the cayes and Florida. After struggling long and hard, the islanders established fishing cooperatives. Once they shook off the human "sharks," the fishing industry on the cayes became successful, with the benefits finally going to the fishermen.

Today's Ambergris
The island is rich in lore, some of which still reaches out and taps the modern islander on the shoulder. The establishment of the fishermen's co-op enabled the population of Ambergris to develop a good middle-class economy over the years. The financial upswing has allowed the town to improve the infrastructure of the island, which in turn has created a good atmosphere for tourists. Lots of stores, cafés, and hotels are waiting to be enjoyed, and the streets are becoming crowded with golf carts as the island develops.
The earliest tourists came to Ambergris Caye aboard the boat Pamelayne in the 1920s. By 1965, the first real hotel was established, and the industry has been growing ever since. The caye is considered the most developed and successful tourism area of Belize. It boasts 24-hour-a-day electricity, modern telephone communication to anywhere in the world, and medical services.

There is a steady, mellow buzz to San Pedro Town, becoming a bit hectic and trendy at holiday times. If you visit during El Dia de San Pedro, June 26-29, you'll get a good local festival in as well. There is no doubt that Ambergris is quickly developing in an upscale direction, but don't be fooled-it's doing it Belizean style. You'll have to come down to find out what that means for yourself.

ORIENTATION
Whether arriving by air or sea, your trip to Ambergris begins in San Pedro Town. There are three roads running north-south and paralleling both the beach, on the island's east side, and the reef, visible just offshore. Most locals still refer to the streets by their historic names, so that's what we do most of the time here. They are: Front Street (Barrier Reef Drive), Middle Street (Pescador Drive), and Back Street (Angel Coral Street). Another common landmark is the north end of town, where the San Pedro River flows through a navigable cut. This spot is often referred to as "the cut" or "the ferry," the latter referring to the hand-drawn barge that crosses back and forth all day, carrying pedestrians, bicycles, and golf carts for a small fee.

You'll often hear the term "south of town," both on the streets and in these pages. This refers to the continually developing area beyond the airstrip, accessed by traveling south on Coconut Drive.

San Pedro and Ambergris Caye
San Pedro is the only town on Ambergris and has long been the most-visited destination in Belize-in fact, for years it was the only developed part of the country's tourism industry. It has a population of about 9,000 Belizeans and an ever-fluctuating mob of gringos that numbers from the hundreds to about 1,000 at any one time. Foreigners own about 60 of Ambergris's 70 accommodations-good for island economy, or the "new colonialism"? You decide.

THE LAND
Ambergris Caye is Belize's largest island, jutting south from the Mexican Yucatán mainland, stretching 24 miles into Belizean waters and interrupted by an ages-old canal. In fact, if it weren't for this "cut," dug by the Maya, Ambergris could easily have ended up part of Mexico. As for its name, ambergris is a waxy substance originating in the intestines of the sperm whale. Don't laugh-the rare and valuable substance used to be used in the manufacture of perfume and went for top dollar.
The island sits only 35 miles east of Belize City and only three-quarters of a mile west of the Belize Barrier Reef, visible from most beachfront hotels. Ambergris's beach runs parallel to the reef except at Rocky Point, where they briefly come together. Ambergris Caye was formed by an accumulation of coral fragments and silt from the Río Hondo as it emptied from what is now northern Belize. The caye is made up of mangrove swamps, 12 lagoons, a plateau, and a series of low sand ridges. The largest lagoon, fed by 15 creeks, is 2.5-mile-long Laguna de San Pedro on the western side of the village.
San Pedro Town sits on a sand ridge at the southern end of the island. Over the years, the constant wind, rain, tides, and occasional battering of a hurricane have reduced the shoreline and beachfront of the village by 30 feet. This is normal for barrier islands, which naturally shift position-but it's a bummer for we humans who like to build things in the sand.


HISTORY
The Maya As with the rest of Belize, the first people on the caye were the Maya. They managed to fight off the invading Spaniards as early as 1508. Very little is known about these Maya. However, a small Post-Classic site in the Basil Jones area and a few jade and carved ornaments have been found along with obsidian flakes and fragments of pottery. Remnants indicate that Ambergris Caye was an important hub for trading. It is possible to visit these sites; transportation and guides are widely available.
At the southern end of the caye, the ruins of Marco Gonzalez are also considered of strategic importance. It is presumed that because of the location of Ambergris Caye (in the center of the sea-lane) it was a stopover for Maya traders traveling up and down the coast. And because of its close proximity to Mexico, no doubt it had great military value as well.
Four and a half miles north of Rocky Point, at Boca Bacalar Chico, a narrow channel separates Belize and Mexico. The Maya dug the strait by hand so that they could bring their canoes through rather than go all the way around the peninsula (now Ambergris Caye). In dry years when the water receded, it was impossible to get a boat through, so in 1899 the Mexican government expanded the channel to, like the Native Americans before them, allow its ships easy access to the other side of the peninsula.
The Blakes Between 1848 and 1849, during the Caste War on the Yucatán Peninsula, Yucatecan mestizos migrated to Belize, and four families were the first permanent residents of what has developed into present-day San Pedro on Ambergris Caye. Before long, there was a population of 50 self-sufficient fishermen, who were also growing corn and vegetables. Life was idyllic for these people-until 1874 and the coming of the Blake family.
James Blake paid the Belize government BZE$650 for Ambergris Caye (taking over every parcel of land except one set aside for the Catholic church) and began collecting rent from people who had been there for many years. After this, the history of the island was tied up with the fortunes of the Blakes and their in-laws, the Parhams and Alamillas. Their story reads like a script from a novel, including love affairs, illegitimate children, unlikely marriages, and (some say) power trips. The Blakes controlled everybody and everything on the island, including the coconut and fishing industries, though in the end (after almost 100 years) the good guys won out-or so it seems today. After many years, the rule of the Blake family came to a close when the Belizean government stepped in and made a "forced purchase" of San Pedro. It redistributed the land, selling lots and parcels to the same islanders who had been living on the land for generations.
The Fishing Industry The caye saw industry change according to the political climate: from logwood to chicle to coconuts, and then to lobsters. Before 1920, the spiny lobster was thrown away and considered a nuisance, constantly getting caught in fishing nets. That all changed in 1921 when the lobster became a valuable export item. Though the fishermen were getting only a penny a pound, the business became lucrative when freezer vessels and freezer-equipped seaplanes began flying between the cayes and Florida. After struggling long and hard, the islanders established fishing cooperatives. Once they shook off the human "sharks," the fishing industry on the cayes became successful, with the benefits finally going to the fishermen.
Today's Ambergris The island is rich in lore, some of which still reaches out and taps the modern islander on the shoulder. The establishment of the fishermen's co-op enabled the population of Ambergris to develop a good middle-class economy over the years. The financial upswing has allowed the town to improve the infrastructure of the island, which in turn has created a good atmosphere for tourists. Lots of stores, cafés, and hotels are waiting to be enjoyed, and the streets are becoming crowded with golf carts as the island develops.
The earliest tourists came to Ambergris Caye aboard the boat Pamelayne in the 1920s. By 1965, the first real hotel was established, and the industry has been growing ever since. The caye is considered the most developed and successful tourism area of Belize. It boasts 24-hour-a-day electricity, modern telephone communication to anywhere in the world, and medical services.
There is a steady, mellow buzz to San Pedro Town, becoming a bit hectic and trendy at holiday times. If you visit during El Dia de San Pedro, June 26-29, you'll get a good local festival in as well. There is no doubt that Ambergris is quickly developing in an upscale direction, but don't be fooled-it's doing it Belizean style. You'll have to come down to find out what that means for yourself.


ORIENTATION Whether arriving by air or sea, your trip to Ambergris begins in San Pedro Town. There are three roads running north-south and paralleling both the beach, on the island's east side, and the reef, visible just offshore. Most locals still refer to the streets by their historic names, so that's what we do most of the time here. They are: Front Street (Barrier Reef Drive), Middle Street (Pescador Drive), and Back Street (Angel Coral Street). Another common landmark is the north end of town, where the San Pedro River flows through a navigable cut. This spot is often referred to as "the cut" or "the ferry," the latter referring to the hand-drawn barge that crosses back and forth all day, carrying pedestrians, bicycles, and golf carts for a small fee.
You'll often hear the term "south of town," both on the streets and in these pages. This refers to the continually developing area beyond the airstrip, accessed by traveling south on Coconut Drive.

DRIVE YOUR OWN GOLF CART

If you like to do your own driving, rent one of the hundreds of electric golf carts used on Ambergris Caye. Just follow one of the many advertisements leading you to a rental place, or start with Moncho's, closest to the airstrip and boasting one of the island's largest fleets (tel. 501/226-3262). There's also Cholo's (tel. 501/226-2406) on Jewfish Street in town, and Polo's (tel. 501/226-3542). Polo's is near the north end of Front Street and has bicycle rentals as well. There are plenty more options; most resorts outsource to one rental company. Rates are pretty standard: about US$50 for 8 hours, US$250 for the week.
When driving your cart, carry a valid driver's license and follow all normal traffic laws. As the Green Guide advises: "Don't count on the golf carts around you to have brakes. They're designed for lush fairways with a few sprinklers, not for high tides and potholes. When driving, please don't run over the children, or splash pedestrians, and note all the one-way streets on the town map."
Front Street closes down to all but pedestrian traffic on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Also, make sure you park on the correct side of the street (it alternates every few weeks, just do what the locals are doing).

SIGHTS
Beaches
Don't expect the wide open, clean beaches you've seen in other Caribbean destinations. A few hotels have good sand; most don't. But the ocean is as beautiful as ever, and when you want to swim, small docks are provided where it might be difficult. In some areas, you need to wade through some sea grass to get to deep water, but it's worth it.

Hol Chan Marine Reserve
Once a traditional fishing ground, back when San Pedro was a sleepy village of a few hundred people, Hol Chan is now the most popular dive and snorkel site in Belize, with 75,000 visitors a year. Once you visit, you'll quickly understand the popularity of the reserve, and why it is important to help preserve it for years to come. Please follow the simple reef etiquette guidelines (see the sidebar "Reef Etiquette" in the Know Belize chapter), and help to lessen the impact humans have on these fragile ecosystems.

Declared in 1987, this marine park was established in order to preserve a small, but complete, section of the Belize Barrier Reef. Because of the no-fishing restrictions near the reef, the site boasts an amazing diversity of species. The reserve focuses its energy on creating a sustainable link between tourism and conservation, protecting the coral reef while allowing visitors to experience and learn about the beauty of the marine life living there.

The Hol Chan Marine Reserve office is on Caribena Street in the center of town and features an interactive visitors center, information on the reserve, and displays detailing the various zones of the reserve and its species. Nearly all tour operators have trips to the Hol Chan cut and Shark Ray Alley.

Other Sights
Most of the other noteworthy sights in the area are under water. Every dive and snorkel operator has their own list of secret spots where they'll take you. Ask about ruins and cuts around the northern part of Ambergris Caye.

For many, the main attractions of Ambergris include the shops and boutiques in central San Pedro and the chain of resorts stretching north and south from the island. Walking, biking, or golf-carting in either direction can be a great half- or full-day activity, as you hop from one swanky hotel bar to the next, sampling different cuisines, moods, and color schemes, all with a view of the reef just offshore.

ENTERTAINMENT AND NIGHTLIFE
San Pedro boasts the best nightlife in the country, whether your idea of fun is dancing up a storm, drowning in alcohol, hearing live music, or watching chickens shit-it's all here. Wednesdays and Saturdays are the biggest nights out, and water taxis actually change their schedules to accommodate revelers. In general, the hotspots don't get going until 11 p.m. or midnight, with lots of warming up in the various bars before the bumpin' and grindin' begins.

Bars
Diving by day and drinking by night is the standard Ambergris scene-although with a number of proud under-achievers, you can replace the diving with a full day of cocktails. The bar at BC's (on the beach, back from the airstrip) is a particularly popular spot at which to drink your breakfast (and other meals), open at 9 a.m. daily and ragingly popular for its Sunday afternoon BBQ (bar food available). The standard tourist hangout is found in Fido's Courtyard, Cannibals, or the Purple Parrot Bar. The latter is in Ramon's Village and is apparently a favorite of Jimmy Buffet. Fido's often has live music. The Rehab Bar is next to the Jaguar's Temple disco, open daily, and on an open corner-great for people watching.

Local musician Barefoot Skinny's got a place of his own now, the Hammock House (11 a.m.- 11 p.m. daily), all the way up by the north end ferry (right across the cut), featuring live music and jams five nights a week, and happy hour 4-6 p.m. daily. Cholo's Sport Bar is one of the mellower local hangouts. The Casa Picasso restaurant turns into a sensually lit martini lounge at 9 p.m., with half-price martinis to wash down their scrumptious tapas.

Of course, you'll have to catch a Wednesday night Chicken Drop, 6 p.m. at the Pier Lounge (in the Spindrift Hotel)-this is a local cultural event in which bets are placed as to which numbered square a caged chicken will choose to soil. Also ask if the crab races are still happening on Mondays, and warm up at the 2-for-1 happy hour, 4 p.m.-6 p.m.

Ambergris also has The Palace, a casino that lets you lose your money at slots and blackjack. They open every day at 2 p.m. but are closed Wednesday.

Crazy Canuck's Beach Bar has live punta music and dancing on Mondays, and all kinds of games (dice, cards, horseshoes, dominoes), including Saturday-afternoon Scrabble competitions.

Dancing
Wednesdays feature ladies night at Wet Willy's, and the Saturday scene really gets going when Fido's closes at midnight and everyone wanders across the street to the Jaguar Temple, open from 9:30 p.m. Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. The night often ends up at Big Daddy's Disco, on the edge of the park and the ocean at Ambergris Street. Music and dancing can easily go until 3 a.m., sometimes later. The Barefoot Iguana Disco, south of town on Coconut Drive, just changed ownership and seems to be steered toward an older, rock 'n' roll menu of entertainment; definitely look into it, as they plan to import all kinds of music and other entertainment.
Movies
The only real movie theater in the country is in the basement of the Princess Hotel in Belize City; the nearest modern cinema is just across the lagoon in Chetumal, Mexico. Here in San Pedro, however, you can enjoy the intimate setting of the Brown Sugar Cinema (located across from Fido's on Front St., tel. 501/608-6110, US$6), projecting DVDs on a big screen (bigger than your television, anyway); swing by their video rental shop down the block for a schedule.

SHOPPING
Gift shops abound in San Pedro, especially on Front and Middle Streets; many are fond of reminding you that you are, in fact, on the island from Madonna's song, La Isla Bonita. They've got your postcards, shells, swim-and beach-apparel, towels, hats, T-shirts, and the rest of the usual knickknacks. Some are more than just souvenir shops and have displays of gems or fascinating crafts-San Pedro has several artists who create world-class art with excellent portrayals of life and nature in Belize on canvas, and at least one artist who works in clay. Following are just a couple of notable shops.

You'll find Belizean Arts (tel. 501/226-2638) in Fido's Courtyard, featuring native art by local and neighboring-country artists as well as a great variety of crafts. If you're looking for more than the run-of-the-mill T-shirts, this store might be worth checking out. Mambo Chill, right next door, is the hip spot for expensive women's clothing. The sale sections at the Toucan 1 and Toucan 2 stores are treasured by local thrifters.

Ambergris Art Gallery is worth a look, with two stores: one on Middle Street near the men's clothing store Moonbreeze, the other in the Sunbreeze Hotel. There's a stained glass gallery south of Victoria House, and another interesting art gallery north of the cut, past Sweet Basil's.

Get your rocks on at the Ambergris Maya Jade and History Museum (located across from Town Hall, tel. 501/226-3311, ambergrisjade@aol.com, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. daily). Also a retail jade shop, it's designed "to give visitors an overview of 3,000 years of Mesoamerican jade and its importance to the cultures in the region." When you're finished, check out Ambergris Emeralds, just a few doors down.

RECREATION

Diving
There are many dive shops on the island. Almost every hotel on Ambergris employs the services of local divers, and some have on-site dive shops and dive masters. They all offer pretty much the same thing: resort courses, PADI and/or NAUI certification classes, day trips, and snorkel trips. Some also offer things like night dives, and a few have NITROX capabilities. What really makes the difference is the instructor or dive master. Prices are pretty standard around the island. It's worth it to shop around, but in general expect the following: two-tank dive US$60 plus rental fee and tax; open water certification US$250-350; three-tank dive to the Blue Hole US$185, to Turneffe US$150.

Amigos del Mar (tel. 501/226-2706, amigosdive@btl.net), located on the pier off of Cholo's Bar, is a bustling place with top-notch gear and a solid reputation as one of the best and safest operations on the island. Patojo's (tel. 501/226-2283, patojos@btl.net), located on the pier off Boca del Rio Drive, has an equally excellent reputation for professional service.

The Victoria House (victoria@btl.net) has the Bradley brothers, great dive masters who lead a very personal and educational tour-they enjoy their jobs and want you to enjoy their environment. The Coral Beach Dive Shop (tel. 501/226-2013) not only has been around for a long time, but also has the Offshore Express, the only live-aboard based in San Pedro. Bottom Time dive shop is a full-service facility at the Holiday Hotel.

Boating, Snorkeling, and Fishing
Take a boat ride. Explore the Caribbean Sea in and around the many cayes of the area. Some vessels are glass-bottom boats, such as the Reef Seekers (tel. 501/226-2802), so the non-swimmer can enjoy the beauty of the sea too. Two trips daily, 9 a.m. and noon. Snorkeling is also part of the activity on many boats, and gear is readily available.

Blue Hole (at the Spindrift Hotel, tel. 501/226-2982, www.bluedive.com) offers all the standard caye and inland tours. Captain Rick Bevan charters a 42-foot catamaran from his dock behind BC's Bar (tel. 501/226-3168, www.belizecharters.com).

A day-boat with a long history of success is the Rum Punch II, run by brothers Tony and George. A snorkeling stop at the Coral Garden, lunch at Caye Caulker, and captivating stories make a pleasant day. True to the boat's name, rum punch is served throughout the trip. For a romantic evening, check out various sunset cruises.

Most dive shops and snorkeling guides also do fishing trips. Ask around the docks (and your hotel) for the best guides. Rubie's Hotel has a shack on the beach, and the guys working there are rumored to be excellent guides. The area within the reef is a favorite for such fish as tarpon and bonefish. Outside the reef, the choice of big game is endless. Most hotels and dive shops will make arrangements for fishing, including boat and guide. One resort, El Pescador Lodge, specializes in fishing packages that include all types of angling (see Accommodations for contact information).



SIGHTS Beaches Don't expect the wide open, clean beaches you've seen in other Caribbean destinations. A few hotels have good sand; most don't. But the ocean is as beautiful as ever, and when you want to swim, small docks are provided where it might be difficult. In some areas, you need to wade through some sea grass to get to deep water, but it's worth it.
Hol Chan Marine Reserve Once a traditional fishing ground, back when San Pedro was a sleepy village of a few hundred people, Hol Chan is now the most popular dive and snorkel site in Belize, with 75,000 visitors a year. Once you visit, you'll quickly understand the popularity of the reserve, and why it is important to help preserve it for years to come. Please follow the simple reef etiquette guidelines (see the sidebar "Reef Etiquette" in the Know Belize chapter), and help to lessen the impact humans have on these fragile ecosystems.
Declared in 1987, this marine park was established in order to preserve a small, but complete, section of the Belize Barrier Reef. Because of the no-fishing restrictions near the reef, the site boasts an amazing diversity of species. The reserve focuses its energy on creating a sustainable link between tourism and conservation, protecting the coral reef while allowing visitors to experience and learn about the beauty of the marine life living there.
The Hol Chan Marine Reserve office is on Caribena Street in the center of town and features an interactive visitors center, information on the reserve, and displays detailing the various zones of the reserve and its species. Nearly all tour operators have trips to the Hol Chan cut and Shark Ray Alley.
Other Sights Most of the other noteworthy sights in the area are under water. Every dive and snorkel operator has their own list of secret spots where they'll take you. Ask about ruins and cuts around the northern part of Ambergris Caye.
For many, the main attractions of Ambergris include the shops and boutiques in central San Pedro and the chain of resorts stretching north and south from the island. Walking, biking, or golf-carting in either direction can be a great half- or full-day activity, as you hop from one swanky hotel bar to the next, sampling different cuisines, moods, and color schemes, all with a view of the reef just offshore.


ENTERTAINMENT AND NIGHTLIFE San Pedro boasts the best nightlife in the country, whether your idea of fun is dancing up a storm, drowning in alcohol, hearing live music, or watching chickens shit-it's all here. Wednesdays and Saturdays are the biggest nights out, and water taxis actually change their schedules to accommodate revelers. In general, the hotspots don't get going until 11 p.m. or midnight, with lots of warming up in the various bars before the bumpin' and grindin' begins.
Bars Diving by day and drinking by night is the standard Ambergris scene-although with a number of proud under-achievers, you can replace the diving with a full day of cocktails. The bar at BC's (on the beach, back from the airstrip) is a particularly popular spot at which to drink your breakfast (and other meals), open at 9 a.m. daily and ragingly popular for its Sunday afternoon BBQ (bar food available). The standard tourist hangout is found in Fido's Courtyard, Cannibals, or the Purple Parrot Bar. The latter is in Ramon's Village and is apparently a favorite of Jimmy Buffet. Fido's often has live music. The Rehab Bar is next to the Jaguar's Temple disco, open daily, and on an open corner-great for people watching.
Local musician Barefoot Skinny's got a place of his own now, the Hammock House (11 a.m.- 11 p.m. daily), all the way up by the north end ferry (right across the cut), featuring live music and jams five nights a week, and happy hour 4-6 p.m. daily. Cholo's Sport Bar is one of the mellower local hangouts. The Casa Picasso restaurant turns into a sensually lit martini lounge at 9 p.m., with half-price martinis to wash down their scrumptious tapas.
Of course, you'll have to catch a Wednesday night Chicken Drop, 6 p.m. at the Pier Lounge (in the Spindrift Hotel)-this is a local cultural event in which bets are placed as to which numbered square a caged chicken will choose to soil. Also ask if the crab races are still happening on Mondays, and warm up at the 2-for-1 happy hour, 4 p.m.-6 p.m.
Ambergris also has The Palace, a casino that lets you lose your money at slots and blackjack. They open every day at 2 p.m. but are closed Wednesday.
Crazy Canuck's Beach Bar has live punta music and dancing on Mondays, and all kinds of games (dice, cards, horseshoes, dominoes), including Saturday-afternoon Scrabble competitions.
Dancing Wednesdays feature ladies night at Wet Willy's, and the Saturday scene really gets going when Fido's closes at midnight and everyone wanders across the street to the Jaguar Temple, open from 9:30 p.m. Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. The night often ends up at Big Daddy's Disco, on the edge of the park and the ocean at Ambergris Street. Music and dancing can easily go until 3 a.m., sometimes later. The Barefoot Iguana Disco, south of town on Coconut Drive, just changed ownership and seems to be steered toward an older, rock 'n' roll menu of entertainment; definitely look into it, as they plan to import all kinds of music and other entertainment.
Movies The only real movie theater in the country is in the basement of the Princess Hotel in Belize City; the nearest modern cinema is just across the lagoon in Chetumal, Mexico. Here in San Pedro, however, you can enjoy the intimate setting of the Brown Sugar Cinema (located across from Fido's on Front St., tel. 501/608-6110, US$6), projecting DVDs on a big screen (bigger than your television, anyway); swing by their video rental shop down the block for a schedule.


SHOPPING Gift shops abound in San Pedro, especially on Front and Middle Streets; many are fond of reminding you that you are, in fact, on the island from Madonna's song, La Isla Bonita. They've got your postcards, shells, swim-and beach-apparel, towels, hats, T-shirts, and the rest of the usual knickknacks. Some are more than just souvenir shops and have displays of gems or fascinating crafts-San Pedro has several artists who create world-class art with excellent portrayals of life and nature in Belize on canvas, and at least one artist who works in clay. Following are just a couple of notable shops.
You'll find Belizean Arts (tel. 501/226-2638) in Fido's Courtyard, featuring native art by local and neighboring-country artists as well as a great variety of crafts. If you're looking for more than the run-of-the-mill T-shirts, this store might be worth checking out. Mambo Chill, right next door, is the hip spot for expensive women's clothing. The sale sections at the Toucan 1 and Toucan 2 stores are treasured by local thrifters.
Ambergris Art Gallery is worth a look, with two stores: one on Middle Street near the men's clothing store Moonbreeze, the other in the Sunbreeze Hotel. There's a stained glass gallery south of Victoria House, and another interesting art gallery north of the cut, past Sweet Basil's.
Get your rocks on at the Ambergris Maya Jade and History Museum (located across from Town Hall, tel. 501/226-3311, ambergrisjade@aol.com, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. daily). Also a retail jade shop, it's designed "to give visitors an overview of 3,000 years of Mesoamerican jade and its importance to the cultures in the region." When you're finished, check out Ambergris Emeralds, just a few doors down.


RECREATION
Diving There are many dive shops on the island. Almost every hotel on Ambergris employs the services of local divers, and some have on-site dive shops and dive masters. They all offer pretty much the same thing: resort courses, PADI and/or NAUI certification classes, day trips, and snorkel trips. Some also offer things like night dives, and a few have NITROX capabilities. What really makes the difference is the instructor or dive master. Prices are pretty standard around the island. It's worth it to shop around, but in general expect the following: two-tank dive US$60 plus rental fee and tax; open water certification US$250-350; three-tank dive to the Blue Hole US$185, to Turneffe US$150.
Amigos del Mar (tel. 501/226-2706, amigosdive@btl.net), located on the pier off of Cholo's Bar, is a bustling place with top-notch gear and a solid reputation as one of the best and safest operations on the island. Patojo's (tel. 501/226-2283, patojos@btl.net), located on the pier off Boca del Rio Drive, has an equally excellent reputation for professional service.
The Victoria House (victoria@btl.net) has the Bradley brothers, great dive masters who lead a very personal and educational tour-they enjoy their jobs and want you to enjoy their environment. The Coral Beach Dive Shop (tel. 501/226-2013) not only has been around for a long time, but also has the Offshore Express, the only live-aboard based in San Pedro. Bottom Time dive shop is a full-service facility at the Holiday Hotel.
Boating, Snorkeling, and Fishing Take a boat ride. Explore the Caribbean Sea in and around the many cayes of the area. Some vessels are glass-bottom boats, such as the Reef Seekers (tel. 501/226-2802), so the non-swimmer can enjoy the beauty of the sea too. Two trips daily, 9 a.m. and noon. Snorkeling is also part of the activity on many boats, and gear is readily available.
Blue Hole (at the Spindrift Hotel, tel. 501/226-2982, www.bluedive.com) offers all the standard caye and inland tours. Captain Rick Bevan charters a 42-foot catamaran from his dock behind BC's Bar (tel. 501/226-3168, www.belizecharters.com).
A day-boat with a long history of success is the Rum Punch II, run by brothers Tony and George. A snorkeling stop at the Coral Garden, lunch at Caye Caulker, and captivating stories make a pleasant day. True to the boat's name, rum punch is served throughout the trip. For a romantic evening, check out various sunset cruises.
Most dive shops and snorkeling guides also do fishing trips. Ask around the docks (and your hotel) for the best guides. Rubie's Hotel has a shack on the beach, and the guys working there are rumored to be excellent guides. The area within the reef is a favorite for such fish as tarpon and bonefish. Outside the reef, the choice of big game is endless. Most hotels and dive shops will make arrangements for fishing, including boat and guide. One resort, El Pescador Lodge, specializes in fishing packages that include all types of angling (see Accommodations for contact information).

SNORKELING SAN PEDRO

Most visitors to San Pedro snorkel at least once during their stay. With such an abundance of fine sites-from docks to the Belize Barrier Reef-you will not have to look far, and nearly all tour operators run trips to the following areas.
For starters, grab your snorkel, mask, and fins, and take a swim around the dock at Ramon's Village Resort. With an artificial reef that is home to a wide variety of small reef fish, this spot is a favorite swimming hole for locals.
For those anxious to see real live coral, the most popular sites are Mexico Rocks and the Hol Chan Marine Reserve. Mexico Rocks is on the reef north of town and is the place to go to see a huge diversity of coral formations. Only twelve feet at its deepest, there is an abundance of coral, and the channel nearby brings in a lot of marine life, especially small reef fish. There aren't as many big fish here as in Hol Chan, but for some that's a plus. A little bit south of this area is Tres Cocos, a site gaining popularity because of the likelihood of seeing spotted eagle rays. Most tour operators have trips to both areas.
The crown jewel of San Pedro snorkeling is the Hol Chan Marine Reserve, located four miles southeast of San Pedro Town. Visitors are taken to the Hol Chan cut, a 30-foot deep natural break in the Belize Barrier Reef. Snorkelers stay in the shallow inner reef area, but can swim through the cut. Because of the movement through this area between the ocean and the inner reef lagoon, it is high in nutrients and allows for marine animals of all types to thrive and increase in size. Be on the lookout for spiny lobsters, black groupers, nurse sharks, moray eels, and a plethora of reef fish showing off their bright colors. Rangers patrol the area during the day and help ensure the safety of visitors. Listen to your guide, though-the current at Hol Chan can be strong!
Another site, Shark Ray Alley, is also part of the reserve and is a mile south of the Hol Chan cut. This site offers visitors the rare opportunity to snorkel alongside southern stingrays and nurse sharks that frequent the area in search of food (which is kindly provided by your tour operator). Remember-only tour guides are allowed to feed these big fish, and please . . . no touching! Large schools of horse-eyed jack and snapper also come here for the free handouts. There are spectacular coral formations on the back reef for snorkelers, and the fore reef gives scuba divers the chance to dive the Amigos Del Mar tug boat wreck.
When you step back onto dry land, stop in at the Hol Chan Marine Reserve office on Caribena Street in the center of town. The interactive visitors center has information on the reserve, as well as displays detailing the various zones of the reserve and species. Not sure what you saw? Stop in and ask the staff-they're happy to answer questions and give more details on the reserve.

Fitness
The Isla Bonita Tennis Club (toward the south end of the airstrip, tel. 501/226-2683) has an air-conditioned, fully equipped (if small) workout room in an interesting, modern building. There are also aerobics and yoga classes, two tennis courts, a 200,000-gallon pool designed to accommodate both lap swimmers and frolicking children, volleyball, and horseshoes. Use of the facilities for tourists costs US$5 half-day, $10 full-day, or $50/week (special rates for locals). The low-key restaurant and bar offers omelets and other breakfasts, burgers, steaks, and lighter options from US$7. From here you can watch the planes take off and land all day.

On the opposite end of town, almost at the ferry, you'll find the working-man's gym at Oscar's Fitness Center (tel. 501/226-2239), with a magazine-plastered free-weight room, only US$2.50 per workout.

Yoga and Massage
Today's San Pedro offers much more than the marathon drinking bouts it has been famous for in the past, and there is an ever-growing number of healthy activities to choose from. Yoga is usually a wandering affair in San Pedro, with individual instructors roaming from resort to resort, but Leslie Soukup (tel. 501/226-3024, leslie_inbox@hotmail.com) is making a more permanent go at it; call for details on her morning classes, or keep an eye out for her flyer.

There are numerous massage therapists in San Pedro, and a few studios, but prices are no cheaper than in the States or Europe (massages roughly US$65 an hour).

Sol Spa (tel. 501/226-2470, www.solspabelize.com) is just north of the airstrip, offering treatment for your "spirit, mind, and body;" ask about the special "Honeymoon Bliss" and "Solar Therapy" treatments. Synchronicity Healing Arts (tel. 501/226-2936) is more about energy and healing work than merely pampering spa treatment; proprietress TP Pas is a licensed masseuse as well as a yoga and Pilates instructor, and can arrange private or group sessions in her studio, located next door to the San Pedro Sun office, south of town; ask about her "flower essence therapy."

Rosie Uejbe runs Ambergris Massage (tel. 501/606-2127). The Art of Touch (tel. 501/226-3357) is in the entrance to the Sunbreeze Hotel; then there's Tropical Touch (tel. 501/266-4666), Master Lee, and other options. Check the Salamander Hideaway resort as well.

Return to Belize - The Regions

This is a small excerpt from Moon Handbooks Belize. CentralAmerica.Com highly recommends that you enhance your vacation by taking a copy of Moon's comprehensive Handbook with you. For more information visit the Moon Handbooks page on this site.