The Region of Belize - Caye Caulker

The Regions - Caye Caulker

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The Regions - Caye Caulker

Caye Caulker

About 800 or so native Jicauqueños (hee-kaw-KEN-yos, from the Spanish Cayo Jicaco, which evolved into Caye Caulker), or “Caulker Islanders,” reside on this island 21 miles northeast of Belize City, just south of Ambergris Caye, and less than a mile west of the Belize Barrier Reef. The island is four miles from north to south, but the developed and inhabited part is only a mile long, from the Split to the airstrip. The land north of the Split is uninhabitable, consisting mostly of mangrove swamps with a narrow strip of land along the east coast. Commercial fishing is still very important on Caye Caulker, supplying most of San Pedro’s lobsters. Yes, there have been changes and some development on the island as it figures out its place in Belize’s evolving tourism economy, but Caye Caulker is still way cheaper than San Pedro and still as tranquilo as everybody says. It ain’t for nothin’ that Caye Caulker is one of the old-time anchors in Belize’s backpacker trail. During the rainy season, May–September, sand flies and mosquitoes can get pretty fierce, though some years are better than others.

SPORTS AND RECREATION

Diving
Many people enjoy the day trips out to the Blue Hole and Turneffe Island, even though they’ll spend over four hours (two each way) on a boat in open ocean. There is much fantastic diving much closer, right along the reef: Most shops run trips to the Caye Caulker Marine Park, Caye Chapel, St. George’s Caye, Spanish Bay, Sergeant’s Caye, and Hol Chan. Again, there is no “best” dive site, as every diver is looking for something different—just be sure to discuss the various options before booking the trip (and make sure you’re comfortable with their boat and gear).

There are presently four dive shops on Caye Caulker, all of which offer similarly priced local diving (US$60–75 for two tanks), Blue Hole/Turneffe day trips (US$150 for three tanks and transport), certification courses (US$250 for Open Water and Advanced, US$75 for a single-tank resort course), as well as a variety of snorkeling excursions and other trips. Frenchie’s (tel. 501/226-0234, www.frenchiesdiving.com) has a rock-solid reputation for quality service and is owned by a native islander who has been diving these waters since he was a child. Frenchie’s guarantees smaller groups (no more than 10 divers per boat), ensuring lots of personal attention from your dive master. At Belize Diving Services (located behind the soccer field, tel. 501/226-0143, www.belizedivingservices.com), gringa owners Dawn Williams and Kathy Dalton offer three boats, PADI certification, and an on-site classroom.

Paradise Down Scuba (tel. 501/226-0437, www.paradisedown.com) is located right on Front Street and has the biggest dive boat on the island—important when making the two-hour crossing to the Blue Hole. Their day trips include all equipment fees, breakfast, and lunch. Big Fish Dive Center (tel. 501/226-0450, www.bigfishdive.com) is locally owned and reputable.

Snorkeling and Swimming
Mask and fins are available for US$5/day and can be used off almost any dock or at the island’s most popular beach and snorkel spot: the split. You’ll see flocks of sunbathers here an any given day, lounging like reptiles atop the various chunks of sand and cement, getting up only to splash on some more oil or order another Panty Ripper at the Lazy Lizard, who provides mellow music for the scene.

Be aware that swimming in the channel can be dangerous; this is a shallow and heavily trafficked area. The pull of the current can be enough to overpower children or weak swimmers. Also, be very careful of boat traffic, as serious accidents have occurred here. Around the bend only a few yards out of the channel, the water is calm and safer. However, old construction materials have been dumped here for fill, so be careful where you step.

At least a dozen shops on the island rent gear and offer snorkeling trips to farther destinations: usually to the nearby reef, Hol Chan Marine Reserve, and a number of local cayes (see the sidebar “Snorkeling San Pedro”). Following are a couple of reputable operators, but many more are available. Carlos Tours (tel. 501/226-0058 or 600-1654, carlosayala@hotmail.com) offers an uncommon level of personal attention and focus on safety, and for this, Carlos has earned an excellent reputation. His office is on Front Street next to the Sand Box. Anwar Tours (tel. 501/226-0327), run by a pair of local brothers who specialize in snorkel trips to the local reef, Shark Ray Alley, and Hol Chan Reserve also gets good reviews. Also check out Seagull Tours.

Tsunami Adventures (tel. 501/226-0462, www.tsunamiadventures.com) not only provides local snorkel excursions and a range of inland trips, but they serve as a travel agent as well. With an office located up toward the split, they can also book your dive trip.

Some of the best, most sought-after snorkel and trip guides on the island actually prefer not to be mentioned in guidebooks for various personal reasons. They still work and are well-known; seek them out by asking around Front Street.

Boating
Say L King (tel. 501/226-0489, www.sayl-king.com) has a handful of small sailboats, kayaks, and canoes for rent (US$10/hr), located right on the beach just past Tina’s. A bit farther north, look for Toucan Canoe and Kayaks Too, where you can rent boats (US$5/hr or US$23 for six hours) or sign up for a sunset paddle, bird-watching trip, or “round da caye” expedition. Many people do the island circumnavigation on their own—it should only take a couple of hours, but you should have some idea of what you’re doing. EZ Boy Tours rents kayaks for US$10/hour or US$60/day.

Fishing
Inquire at your hotel about making arrangements with a fisherman (tackle provided) to take you on a hunt for the sweetest seafood in the Caribbean. Or, take a walk to the backside of the island, where you’ll find fishermen cleaning their fish, working on lobster traps, or mending their nets in the morning. Many will be willing to take you out for a reasonable fee. The main trophies are groupers, barracuda, snapper, and amberjack—all good eating. Small boats are available for rent by the hour. Check with Mark Nicholas at Destiny Tours (near the split, tel. 501/610-2962 or 226-0275) for all kinds of custom trips that include tackle, bait, and fishing and, if you want, you can arrange for Mark to grill up your catch at the end of the day. (Inland cave tubing and other trips are available as well.)

You can also seek out Porfilio Guzman (tel. 501/226-0152) a well-known fishing guide for reef or flats fishing. Rolando “Roly” Rosado (tel. 501/226-0190 or 226-0058) offers fishing and diving charters. He’ll take you to the reef to dive, or on daylong fishing expeditions. Talk to Roly or his brother, Ramon. Raul Young (tel. 501/226-0133) takes travelers snorkeling or fishing on the reefs and is known for flats fishing.

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